John Donohue on dads who cook

Father of two daughters, editor (New Yorker), blogger and author (Man with a Pan, Algonquin, $15.95) John Donohue most relishes the title “cook,” as he prepares meals night in and night out for his family. We caught him on his cell to chat about Man with a Pan, a book featuring essays by working-dad cooks like Stephen King and Mario Batali, recipes and tips.

One of my favorite essays in the book was New York Times writer Mark Bittman’s. Like him, I started cooking as a way to be productive for the family.
Right. It’s very clear how women’s roles have changed over the last generation, as they work more. For men, that effects a change in us that we don’t necessarily see. Cooking is one way to adapt to that and contribute to the family. Talk about putting food on the table. You’re literally putting food on the table.

Did your dad cook?
No, I grew up in a very traditional home, with four siblings and a stay-at-home mom. The only cooking my dad did was running the Mr. Coffee machine. But I was talking to my sister last night, and we were marveling that our mother made food for seven people night after night after night.

That sounds so daunting to me.
Totally. How do you do that?

So what’s your tip for a working dad just starting out as a cook?
Make what you like to eat. You can start with something as basic as roast chicken, and as long as you have good ingredients, it’s really simple. Just don’t be afraid, and don’t worry about pleasing anyone but yourself.

But the specter of a kid not liking what you cook is intimidating.
Yeah, that gets more complicated. When I make a new dish and everyone cries, that’s tough.