Girl & the Goat

When Stephanie Izard goes the faddy pork-and-beer route, her food is pretty much the same as that of the other name-brand chefs of the day: hefty. So it’s more than refreshing that most of her menu goes the opposite route, with inspired vegetable and seafood dishes (and even desserts) that operate on a lighter, livelier flavor plane. When Izard tops octopus with a lemon-pistachio vinaigrette, pairs flounder with tart slices of plum and serves sweetened eggplant for dessert, she’s evolving the way these ingredients are seen. Don’t let Girl & the Goat’s star status scare you away from bringing kids along: There are lots of child-friendly options among Izard’s less-complex dishes: ham frites, sauteed green beans with fish sauce vinaigrette and chickpea fritters with romesco sauce and hazelnut hummus tend to be hits. And all the hustle and bustle means no one has to be super-duper quiet.